This was my first time ever trying a product containing galactomyces and I was not deceived. If you're reading this blog, you probably have heard of galactomyces or First Treatment Essences (FTE). The first company to popularize galactomyces was SK-II but since then, a lot of other companies have jumped in the bandwagon, offering us more affordable versions. There is Secret Key but also COSRX, Missha and Tony Moly to name a few, but I started with one of less expansive brands, which is Secret Key. They have been around for a little while now, but it took me some time to try one as I was doubting the effect of a water, moreover the scientific data around fermented galactomyces is still pretty scarce for a product that can be so expansive. But after seeing so many good reviews from customers, I wanted to test it for myself. First Treatment Essences is the term generally used for products that use galactomyces or saccharomyces ferment filtrate as the first ingredient. Secret Key decided to call it a Starting Treatment Essence instead of a "First" Treatment Essence, but that doesn't change anything.


According to the brand this essence has 10 benefits :

- Wrinkle improvement
- Refine skin tone
- Whitening
- Elasticity
- Soothing skin
- Hydration
- Oil control
- Exfoliation
- Boosting
- Takes care of sensitive skin.

Ingredients


Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, Dipropylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Seed Extract, Acorus Gramineus Root/Stem Extract, Perilla Ocymoides Leaf Extract, Rosa Centifolia Flower Water, Adenosine.

- Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate: The start ingredient, it is a type a yeast byproduct of the sake brewing process. As I said, there isn't a whole lot of studies for now, but one in the Asian Journal of Beauty & Cosmetology showed improvements in "pores, sebum secretion, brightness and acne".

- Dipropylene Glycol : texture / viscosity enhancer, does not have any skin benefits, it's just to improve the feel of the product.

- Niacinamide AKA vitamin B3: brightening and anti-inflammatory ingredient, It has been shown to improve the appearance of large pores and refine the skin texture. It is such a good multipurpose ingredient that can benefits all skin types.

- Glycerin is a pretty cheap humectant that almost all companies use. Cheap does not mean it doesn't work well, on the contrary it is a naturally occurring molecule in our bodies and helps maintain water levels in our skin.

- Perilla Ocymoides Leaf Extract : anti oxidant.

- Rosa Centifolia Flower Water (rose hip water) : Soothing ingredient.

- Adenosine : anti-aging & soothing ingredient.

The list is already pretty simple and the brand claims it contains 94% of galactomyces ferment filtrate. It is free of 10 harmful ingredients : parabens, animal oil, Benzophenone, artificial fragrance, artificial coloring, Triethanolamine, mineral oil, Phenoxyethanol, alcohol and sulfates.

How to use

After cleansing, at the beginning of your routine, but after your acids.

The packaging says to use a cotton pad, but I feel like it is huge waste of money, and I don't enjoy all the benefits of the essence with a cotton pad.

I found it works best when used in large quantities. I would highly recommend trying the 3-skin or 7-skin method with this. After 4 layers I start to get really soft skin, like a baby's butt. After 7, the skin looks visibly more plump, but I didn't do 7 layers each time, as I don't want to buy a bottle every month. I used it every night, because the 4-skin method would be a bit long on mornings before school.

Packaging


The packaging looks really luxurious, it is in a frosted glass which looks stunning on your vanity, even more so if you have the rose edition. The rose gold that is on the cap and on the rose details on the bottle are super pretty. My only complaint is that you can hardly keep the bottle clean, personally I wrapped it in a tissue so that I could take pictures at the end for this review but otherwise you'd get finger prints all over the bottle. I had no problem with the opening, and overall the packaging is pretty standard for FTEs, it is pretty sturdy.

First impressions

I have not tried any other FTE so I won't be able to compare this product to others in its category.  There isn't any scent that I can detect. I won't even show you the texture on the back on my hand like I usually do, because it literally looks and feels like straight water. The first few layers absorbed really quickly because my skin is thirsty like that. But after about four layers, the absorption takes slightly longer as the skin becomes progressively saturated. After the third layer my skin starts to feel incredibly soft, but that might just be because my skin is rarely that hydrated.

Did I like it ?

I really loved it. It gave me a glow that I rarely can achieve with my dry and dehydrated rosacea skin. For the same reason my skin is rarely silky smooth, but with the 3 or 7 skin method it worked wonders to plump my skin. Dare I say my skin was mochi-mochi: bright, hydrated, smooth and clear. As I find this step quite time consuming, it was usually the first thing I would skip after a busy day. But it still helped a bit with brightening after a couple of weeks.

I found that I needed at least 3 to 4 layers to see optimum results. Because of the hydration it provides, it calmed my redness a bit, but I doubt it is because of the ingredients themselves and more because my skin is not thirsty anymore. According to Musicalhouses, the Secret Key Starting Treatment Essence is a pretty good dupe for the SK-II Facial Treatment Essence given the ingredients. I doubt there is a very big difference between the regular version and this one, the rose water is not in large enough proportion to do anything major, but I have to admit it was worth it just for the packaging alone. Next time, I will probably try the regular version to test if there is a difference in terms of performance.

I would recommend it for any skin type : from dry to oily, sensitive and dehydrated alike.

Price: one of the cheapest FTE I know on the market. I bought it on beautynetkorea.com for $14 (when they still had free shipping, now it is ~$11 + shipping)

Note: 5/5, I have no negative thing to say about this essence. It may not be an essential part of a routine for a beginner, but as a skincare junkie, I will continue to use it.

Would I purchase it again: YES! Although I have just bought the COSRX Galactomyces Alcohol-Free Toner to compare (another dupe to the SK-II Facial Treatment Essence according to Musicalhouses, even though it's not very high in galactomyces), I will buy the Secret Key STE again, probably the regular version to compare to the rose edition.

Packaging

I like the Ordinary packaging, looks very professional, and even the name of the product gives you that impression. When your friends look at that and they think it's a prescription, I think that's pretty cool. I love matte glass and the dropper is good for this type of runny gel. It doesn't look cheap, but it is, love that. When I first saw their product, I actually thought they were going to be super expansive, like Deciem, glossier, etc.

I am guessing the names can be intimidating to persons who don't have much skincare knowledge, but don't be afraid, The Ordinary has a description for each product. I like that their products are targeted to one problem, and not trying to do a bunch of things (except for Buffet) because it is aimed for skincare junkies who know what they want.



Ingredients

Aqua (Water), Lactic Acid, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Triethanolamine, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract, Arginine, Potassium Citrate, Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, PPG-26-Buteth-26, Ethyl 2,2-Dimethylhydrocinnamal, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol. (Taken from the Ordinary website)

As the website states: it is alcohol-free, fragrance-free, silicone-free, nut-free, vegan and cruelty-free!

Lactic Acid is an AHA. The most common AHA is Glycolic Acid, but it is said to be stronger and potentially more irritant than Lactic Acid. That's because Lactic Acid molecular size is bigger than Glycolic Acid, it doesn't penetrate as much into the skin.


Claims & How to use it

According to The Ordinary's website, this products offers very mild exfoliation. It targets uneven tone, textural irregularities and fine lines.

The formulation aims at reducing the inflamation with the Tasmanian Pepperberry and with the right PH. The 3.60-3.80 PH is supposed to be low enough for the acid to work but not too low as it could cause irritation.

Directions: Apply once per day, ideally in the PM. Can be diluted with other treatments to reduce strength until skin develops tolerance. This product contains AHA that may increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun and particularly the possibility of sunburn. Use a sunscreen, wear protective clothing, and limit sun exposure while using this product and for a week afterwards.

First impressions

I did not had an adaptation period as I was previously using the Pixi Glow tonic (which has 5% Glycolic Acid) and my skin was reacting well to it, so with a milder acid, I didn't think I needed any adaption. I use it only on my undereye area (Paula's Choice has an article on using AHA on the undereye area), forehead, nose, chin and jaw line. I have avoided my cheeks where I have rosacea.

The liquid is slightly tacky at first. Because of the texture it spreads easily. The smells is not bad compared to other AHA products I have tried (The best smell would be the Pixi Glow Tonic). For some reasons, AHAs & BHAs tend to not smell good, but this is not the worst at all and the smell disappears quickly. Once I am done with the application, it feels a bit shiny.

Given that my last experience with AHA was with the Pixi Glow Tonic I was surprised that it was more like a gooey serum rather than a watery toner. However that does not change its place in a skincare routine, it should still be applied on a clean face before anything else so that nothing interfere with the PH of the product.
Moreover AHAs and BHAs work better if you wait at least 15 minutes before resuming your skincare routine.

I also should note that I wear sun protection every time I go out, and even when I'm inside all day if it is shiny. If you do use AHAs, ideally you should wear protection for a week after.

Did I like it?

I use it on my undereye area to avoid milia but I still have some and I would not say it helps either with the one I have. On my forehead though, it helps tremendously with closed comedones, those pesky little bumps that you can't pop but stay longer than regular pimples. I use to have lots of closed comedones on my forehead but with regular use, I have never more than 2 or 3 at the same time. I manage to have nothing at times! Each time I see some appearing I do 3/4 days of LA 5% + HA 2% and they usually disappear.

It also work as a prevention for blackhead and whitehead since what clogs pores is usually a mixture of dead skin cells, sebum and other things like pollutants, makeup, creams that are too heavy... Would you believe me if I told you I have 0 blackheads? And very few whiteheads? I have had some for years but with consistent use of AHA I have been able to get rid of every single blackhead. I mean there's also genetics that are in my favor, but still.

5% is a very low percentage for most people but it is advised for people who have never used acids to start low. However given my sensitive skin I cannot go for higher percentages. You also have to consider that Lactic acid is not as powerful as glycolic acid, but it is also less irritating. As a result it never gave me redness / flush, but again I only use it on my T-zone which is less prone to redness than my cheeks. If you wanted something stronger, there is a 10% Lactic Acid + 2% HA available form the same brand.

Note: 4.5. It is that close to be a holy grail. But I prefer thinner texture. So I think I will go back to my beloved Pixi Glow Tonic, which I have being comparing a lot as you may have noticed, because I love it so much.

Would I repurchase? I will probably go back to the Pixi Glow Tonic, but if I ever find myself short on money, I would go back to this without a doubt.

What we finished this month:
- The Face Shop - Rice Water Bright Light Cleansing Oil
- Clarins - Moisture - Rich Body Lotion
- The Face Shop - Green Tea Waterfull Serum
- Clarins - Daily Energizer Cleansing Gel
- Bobbi Brown - Hydrating Eye Cream (not pictured)
- Re:cipe - Rose Petal Cleansing Oil
- Lancôme - Tonique Douceur
- Holika Holika - One solution Clear Ampoule
- Clinique - Take The Day Off Cleansing Balm

We actually finished those a while ago but forgot to post them so here they are.

What we finished this month:
- The Face Shop - Rice Water Bright Light Cleansing Oil
- Clarins - Moisture - Rich Body Lotion
- The Face Shop - Green Tea Waterfull Serum
- Clarins - Daily Energizer Cleansing Gel
- Bobbi Brown - Hydrating Eye Cream (not pictured)
- Re:cipe - Rose Petal Cleansing Oil
- Lancôme - Tonique Douceur
- Holika Holika - One solution Clear Ampoule
- Clinique - Take The Day Off Cleansing Balm

What we finished:
- Caudalie Vinosource SOS thirst quenching serum
- Avène Spray d'eau thermane
- Erborian BB Crème au Ginseng 5-in-1
- La Roche-Posay Serozinc
- Clarins HydraQuench Cream-Gel
- Clarins Water Purify One-Step Cleanser with Mint Essential Water
- Bioré Perfect milk SPF 50+ PA+++
- It's Skin Power 10 formula VC effector
- Ünt Roses At Dawn Soothing Repair Hydrating Toner

All the products I use regularly.

So after the morning one today I'll present my evening routine.